This beloved French bubbly is disappearing (and Prosecco is to blame)

In the picturesque foothills of the Vercors mountains, a battle is quietly brewing. The Clairette de Die, a beloved French sparkling wine, finds itself in a precarious position. As a sommelier who’s traversed the world’s wine regions, I’ve witnessed firsthand the ebb and flow of wine trends. The challenge facing this traditional French bubbly is a testament to the ever-evolving landscape of the global wine market.

The rise of prosecco: a sparkling threat

The Clairette de Die, with its protected designation of origin since 1942, has long been a staple of French celebrations. Covering 1,600 hectares of vineyards nestled between 200 and 700 meters above sea level, this natural sparkling wine has been the go-to choice for those seeking an affordable alternative to Champagne. However, the winds of change are blowing through the industry, and they carry the unmistakable aroma of Prosecco.

Italian Prosecco has surged in popularity, riding the wave of the spritz cocktail trend. Its Instagram-friendly orange hue and versatility in mixology have captivated a younger audience, leaving traditional French sparklers struggling to keep up. This shift in consumer preferences has dealt a significant blow to both Clairette de Die and Crémant de Die, despite their potential to capitalize on the renewed interest in sparkling wines.

The impact of this trend is reflected in the numbers:

• Clairette de Die sales have stagnated since 2018
• International sales account for a mere 15% of total sales
• A brief 4% sales increase in July was quickly reversed

Adapting to market pressures

Faced with these challenges, the Clairette de Die syndicate is considering drastic measures. A 20% reduction in production is on the table, which translates to the potential uprooting of 300 hectares of vines. This decision weighs heavily on the local economy, as Franck Monge, mayor of Vercheny and a Clairette producer himself, points out, “If you remove Clairette, nothing remains. Here the land is poor, we’re in the mountains, often only vines can grow.”

The French Ministry of Agriculture has stepped in, offering a grubbing-up premium of 4,000 euros per hectare. Producers like Fabien Lombard, president of the Clairette syndicate, are planning to take advantage of this offer, targeting older or more challenging parcels for removal. It’s a bittersweet solution to what Lombard describes as a “growth crisis” – an overplanting that now requires correction.

Jaillance, the largest producer of Clairette de Die, is taking a different approach. Guillaume de Laforcade, the company’s general manager, outlines their strategy:

Reclaiming the sparkle: marketing and innovation

As someone who’s tasted countless sparkling wines across continents, I can attest to the unique character of Clairette de Die. Yet, in today’s market, quality alone isn’t enough. The industry is realizing that marketing is key to differentiation. Jérôme Vincent, a local winemaker, emphasizes this point, stating, “There’s a place for Clairette, provided we go all out. Today, only marketing allows us to stand out.”

The syndicate is focusing on communication strategies to reposition Clairette de Die as a French-made alternative to Prosecco. They’re highlighting its local production, affordability, and quality – aspects that resonate with conscientious consumers. This approach aligns with my experiences in wine education, where I’ve seen growing interest in wines with a sense of place and sustainable practices.

Innovation is also on the agenda. During a recent tasting event, I sampled some experimental Clairette blends that showed promising potential to appeal to younger palates. These new directions could be crucial in reversing the trend of an aging customer base and attracting new enthusiasts to this historic appellation.

The struggle of Clairette de Die against the Prosecco tide is more than a tale of competing bubbles. It’s a reflection of changing consumer habits, global market forces, and the challenges faced by traditional wine regions in a rapidly evolving industry. As the vineyards of Die adapt and innovate, they’re not just fighting for market share – they’re preserving a piece of French winemaking heritage for future generations to enjoy.